ARTS(AB)401 Advanced Batik, Kathy Knippel, Spring 2020 | SACI College of Art & Design Florence

ARTS(AB)401 Advanced Batik, Kathy Knippel, Spring 2020

This course studies the techniques of wax resist Batik, paste resists, silk painting, and the tied and shaped resist processes of Shibori. The projects gradually increase in complexity and are designed to introduce and instruct the students on how to control the image-making process, by solving various color and design problems through the manipulation of the resists and dye bath sequences. In the immersion dyeing process, one color overlaps and affects the next color. The student is soon aware of certain color limitations in the sequence of gradually dyeing darker. Two systems for overcoming the limitations are introduced in the projects. One by direct dye applications of colors that would be cancelled. The second by saving areas under the wax and removing and replacing the wax perhaps several times during the wax and immersion dyeing process. Silk Painting techniques, the direct application of dyes with resists of outlines, and various textural techniques akin to watercolor will also be explored. Optional techniques of Shibori resist, include, Arashi pole wrapping, pleating, folding, sewing resists, and clamping can also be explored by those finishing the first projects or by more advanced students. Other textile techniques introduced to further embellish at least one of the dyed projects include, quilting, embroidery, beading, applique, or textile sculpture

Materials

There is a studio fee of 120 Euros to cover all dyes, silk paints, wax, resists, dry cleaning, photocopies, ironing out paper, and various small materials. Students will purchase drawing supplies, silk scarves and fabrics, some watercolor brushes, beads, or other embellishments.

Course Projects

Introductory lecture, history and basic techniques with examples

1. PROJECT I: SILK PAINTING, DIRECT DYE APPLICATION
a. Planning of the first design, theme to be announced.
b. Preparing design to full size on paper, and transter to fabric.
c. Proper stretching of the fabric on the frames for waxing.
d. Use and practice with the Tjanting tool on scrap fabric and paper.
e. Techniques for direct application of dyes on the fabric.
f. Production and completion of the first silk painting.
g. Wax removal.

2. PROJECT II: BATIK IMMERSION DYEING
a. A design in 3 or 4 analogous or related colors.
b. Planning the dyeing sequences from light to dark colors.
c. Transferring of design to fabric, and stretching on the waxing frame.
d. Waxing for the first color, further waxing experimentation for wax effects. Waxing in the negative.
e. Immersion dyeing techniques.
f. Repeat of the steps until all the colors are achieved.
g. Wax removal.

3. PROJECT III: SECOND SILK PAINTINGO WITH ONE IMMERSION DYEING / OR SALT EFFECT
a. Planning of the design, and transfer to fabric.
b. Stretching of the fabric to frame.
c. Waxing and application of the direct dyes.
d. Immersion dyeing for background or other areas. Or options; Salt effect or watercolor effect.
e. Wax removal.

4. PROJECT IV: BATIK IMMERSION DYEING WITH COMPLEMENTARY COLORS
a. The Batik must be planned with 2 or even 3 complete removals of the wax.
b. Requirement, thorough planning of the dyeing sequence.
c. Step one, save under wax all white areas to be in the opposite color group (ex. cool colors).
d. Wax and immersion dye all the related colors in the fìrst group (ex. Warm colors)
e. Remove wax completely.
f. Step two, save under wax, all the colors to be saved from the first color group (ex. warm colors).
g. Wax and immersion dye all the related colors in the second color group (ex. cool colors).
h. Remove wax, finish batik.

5. PROJECT V: OPTIONAL, SHIBORI, TIED AND SHAPED RESIST
a. First a set of samples then a project.
b. Various tying methods.
c. Sewing and stitching.
d. Pleating and folding.
e. Clamp and template resist.
f. Polo wrapping Arashi shibori.
g. Discharge techniques.

6. PROJECT VI: FINAL PROJECT; BATIK WITH QUILTING OR OTHER EMBELLISHMENT
a. One of the above projects must be planned as a final project that includes either quilting, trapunto, applique, beading or sewing into a finished item such as a small quilt, wall panel, textile sculpture, cushion, bag, or clothing accessory.

7. NOTEBOOK
a. To include all techniques and technical procedures for Batik and dyeing.
b. Design proposals and the steps for each project.
c. Personal textile designs.
d. Design resources and inspirations.

Methods of Instruction

1. Lecture.
2. Demonstrations.
3. Individual consultation with instructor.
4. Photos, slide samples, and other visual aids.
5. Student experience and laboratory work.
6. Group and individual evaluations and critiques.
7. Where applicable, field trips to exhibits, museums, and factories.

Methods of Evaluation

1. Instructor evaluation of completed projects.
2. Class discussions.
3. Individual student-teacher discussion and critique of completed projects.
4. Factors considered in evaluations
- Application of design principles
- Creativity in use of materials and techniques
- Craftsmanship in execution of projects
- Student effort and intensity of involvement and participation
- Ability to understand and evaluate Batik and resist dye techniques and creative possibilities.

Grading

20% OF YOUR GRADE WIL BE BASED ON CUMULATIVE WORK AND FINAL EXHIBITION
Your work will be evaluated based on your general progress, discipline, enthusiasm and involvement throughout the semester.
60% OF YOUR GRADE WILL BE BASED ON YOUR PROJECTS
20 % OF YOUR GRADE WILL BE BASED ON ATTENDANCE

Graduate Students
​Students in MFA, MA, and Post-Bac programs are expected to complete additional assignments and to produce work at a level appropriate for students in a graduate program. They are graded accordingly and, if they successfully complete all course requirements for graduate students, receive graduate-level credit for the course.

Attendance

If you miss a class for whatever reason, it is your responsibility to attain any assignments as well as make up all missed in-class studio work. The specific policy for this class is as follows: half a letter grade for each unexcused absence after 1 absence. If you are late to class (after attendance has been taken) three times, it will constitute an absence. If you are excessively late, (30 minutes) it will be counted as an absence. Leaving early or not working throughout class time will constitute an absence.

Texts & References

There are no required texts for this course. The studio has numerous books and references available for student use and inspiration. These books and references are for use in the studio only, and are never allowed to be taken out of the studio. The student is asked to respect the books, treat them with care and return them to the library bookcase at the end of class.

Field Trips

The dates for field trips will be determined after the Midterm Break, when the weather is nicer.

  • Visit to the Villa Bardini. Current exhibition and the wonderful gardens. During class time.
  • Visit to the Ferragamo Museum.  During class time.
  • Visit to the Prato Textile Museum (will have to be on a Friday or Saturday).

Schedule

Week 1

JAN. 13-16
Introduction to class. Go over course description. Tour of studio and equipment. Go over examples with explanations. Start working on drawing for first project. Silk painting technique, with wax resist.          

Week 2

JAN. 20-23
Continue designing for first project, silk painting. Drawing design on paper. Transfer of design to silk scarf.

Demonstration of how to set up for waxing with practice using waxing tools on practice fabric. When comfortable with waxing tool work can start on actual project.

Week 3

JAN. 27-30
Continue work on first project. Second class, demonstration on painting the dyes on the wax outlined silk. Practice or testing on practice fabric first then on project. Drying and layering of colors.

Week 4

FEB. 3-6
Continue with first project, finishing with iron out of wax demonstration. Pieces then are dry cleaned.

Week 5

FEB. 10-13
Class critique on first silk painting project.  Possible quilting or embroidery embellishments on first project. Introduction and explanation to second dip dyeing project in 3 to 4 related colors to be on long silk scarf. Explanations about color layering. Designing and thinking in negative.   

Week 6

FEB. 17-20
Designing and planning of the dyeing project transferring from the paper to the silk and stretching on frame. This project will use the waxing tool for details and brushes with heating pot for larger areas.

Week 7

FEB. 24-27
Working on second project. Instructor assistance with dyeing of the scarf in the dye baths. Dye baths are prepared by the instructor, but explanations about different types of dyes and how they work will be given. 

   

Week 8

MIDTERM BREAK (February 29 - March 8)

   

Week 9

MAR. 9-12
Work on and finishing of second project. Class critique.  Introduction to third batik project with contrasting colors, and explanations of the necessary steps to achieve the complex color scheme. Project can be done on large silk scarf or simple clothing item that student will sew if they have the necessary sewing skill.

Week 10

MAR. 16-19
Work on the third batik project. There is always a lot of drying time, so some small projects in the Shibori dyeing techniques will be introduced, one per week. Pole wrapping. Stitched shibori. Folding, clamping, pleating.

Week 11

MAR. 23-26
Working on the third batik project and the shibori techniques. A lecture about natural plant dyes, and some small experiments with plant dyes and teas using shibori techniques.

Week 12

MAR. 30- APR. 2
Working on third project and the smaller exercises.

Week 13

APRIL 6-9
Working on third project and the smaller exercises.

Week 14

APRIL 14-16
Working on projects. FINISHING all projects.

Week 15

APRIL 20-23
Finals week.  Student art exhibit in the studio, date to be fixed.  Final individual critiques.

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